Abstract and Keywords
Because of its essential role in human life, food has been a part of historical narratives since antiquity. As the proper subject of professional inquiry, however, food gained recognition only in the 1990s with the advent of the so-called new cultural history. Whereas the disciplinary hegemony of culture has begun to fragment and decline, the field of food history continues to grow significantly. Therefore, it is only fitting to reflect on the historical study of food as a cultural expression, to differentiate it from cultural approaches to the history of food politics, nutrition, and the like. Changing scholarly assumptions about culture have had an impact in terms of understanding what cuisine is all about. Drawing on the theories of Jack Goody, Sidney Mintz, and Priscilla Parkhurst Ferguson about cuisine, this article examines historical change at three interrelated levels: the circulation of texts, the tastes of dining, and the practices of cooking.
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